Tenganan Pegrinsingan: A glimpse into an ancient village
Tenganan Pegringsingan is a village in Bali, Indonesia, which had been known to anthropologists as a secluded society up to the 1970’s. Today, the ancient village is known for its Bali Aga (indigenous Balinese people) culture that still holds the original traditions, ceremonies and rules of the ancient Balinese. The four temples form part of the unique layout and architecture, and the village is known for gamelan selunding music which is played on iron metalphones, as well as exquisite geringsing double ikat – a textile woven in only three places in the world.
According to legend, the people of this ancient village were selected by the Hindu god Indra to administer a territory in accordance with his divine plan for the cosmos. They were instructed to keep it pure and clean, and to this day, the concept of territorial, bodily and spiritual purity remains important in the village.
The people of Tenganan Pegringsingan are descended from the pre-Majapahit kingdom of Bedahulu. Strict rules determine who can stay in the village. To live here and become a full member of the community, someone must have been born here. When someone marries outside the village, they have to leave.
The village can only be visited by outsiders with the accompaniment of a guide, and it’s impossible to stay over. During my visit, the village was busy with preparations for a ceremony, and the locals were busying themselves with making offerings to the gods, making palm cakes, preparing food for the feast after the ceremony, and sharing arak.
The setting of this village is quite spectacular and feels completely secluded. Misty mountains surround it, and outside influence in terms of development and technology is minimal. It has retained its authentic ancient feel.
The highly prized double ikat is sold from a workshop adjoining a private home, and children and the elderly are present in the private courtyard as sales take place. Visiting the village feels very intimate and personal. Encouraging is that no apparent commercialisation is present, despite the village being open to tourism.
